Hydrangea Pruning Guide

Hydrangeas pruning is one of the most common questions we get from gardeners, and understandably so! Pruning at the wrong time can lead to inadvertently limiting your flowers next year. See our guidelines by type below, but if in doubt, we always recommend leaving them be.

Macrophylla

Bigleaf Mopheads & Lacecaps – These need very little pruning and are best suited where height restriction is not an issue. If desired, prune in late June or July before bloom buds are set in August for the next year. Pruning before or after this will reduce or even prohibit blooming the next year. Deadheading is fine any time. Remove any dead canes or tops of canes that have not leafed out in the spring.

Paniculatas & Arborescens

Can be pruned any time except when they are forming flower heads in the summer—and will not need to be pruned every year. Remove crossing branches and shape when necessary. These bloom on new wood and can be trained into a tree form by encouraging a strong central trunk.

Anomala 

Climbing Hydrangea – No trimming required. May require tying to a sturdy trellis or tree when young, but not for long.

Serrata

The easiest way to prune is to simply remove any dead canes after the hydrangea sprouts in the spring. Compact habit requires less pruning, making this a low-maintenance plant.

Quercifolia

These hydrangeas bloom on old wood so they can be left untouched. Otherwise, the previous year’s wood can be pruned back to leave only two buds at the base of each stem in very early spring. Pruning in this way encourages large panicles.

Looking for more detailed care instructions? The product detail page for each variety will provided in-depth guidelines.